If you’re here, then I’m guessing that you just might. We (yes, I say we because I’ve joined forces with a fellow retro gaming nerd to make this happen!) are going to be offering reproduction SNES and NES games in the not-too-distant future!
Any of you who have purchased products from me or taken advantage of my services know that I sort of obsess over packaging and presentation. Well, we want our repro carts to take that to the next level with hand-made limited packaging, unique artwork, purdy colored carts and such, and even custom cartridge shells with artwork and graphics molding into the shell itself! I know how much collectors love their special editions and just plain old hard copies in general, and we really feel that repro carts, while not official releases, deserve just as much, if not more attention. These carts are all modified by hand, which makes them just that much more unique. That Zelda cart up there is just a quicky to show what can be done with a MINIMAL amount of extra attention. You can expect us to take it much further once things get rolling.
I know there are mixed feelings about reproduction carts, and if it’s not your thing, then I hope you won’t hold our decision to offer such things against us. I promise we won’t obliterate EVERY copy of John Madden ’96 in order to satiate the market
I’ve started casting a few buttons in anticipation of the micro faceplates that I have coming. To really complete the look of those Gameboy and NES plates, matching maroon and red buttons are really gonna be necessary if you ask me.
Here’s a little sample of what’s to come. These are just plain old clear castings for a normal Gameboy Advance.
I’ve been promising these forever with zero luck finding them at a reasonable price. Little did I know they were right under my nose the whole time.
Glass GBA replacement lenses are on their way and they’re cheap! $10 plus shipping to anywhere in the US! I’ll post when they’re in hand and readily available.
So, lemme know what you think. I can order these as soon as tomorrow morning. I won’t have exact pricing until I talk to the supplier, but like I’ve said before, expect around $20 a pop with discounts for multiples.
I also plan on ordering a few black and chrome plates in this first batch since so many folks really seem to want something simple like that too. Let’s hear those opinions, folks! After all, you’re the ones buying this stuff, so I want and NEED to know if you care
Well, I couldn’t help but make a few more designs for you lovely ladies and gents. I’m pretty excited about them. I hope you are too! I placed the order, so now it’s just a matter of time. I’ll post pricing and availability a little later.
This is a topic that comes up frequently and I’m often asked how I paint consoles, carts, controllers, and any plastic parts so that they last.
1st things first:
Prep. Properly preparing the parts for paint is by FAR the most important step. Start by cleaning the part(s). I use plain old Dawn dish soap. The easiest way is to treat the parts like dishes. Fill the sink with warm water and scrub ‘em down. A firm toothbrush is a big help here for all the little nooks and crannies that these plastic parts often have.
If you’ve got one, and would rather not do the dirty work, then a dishwasher on the lowest temp setting with the parts on the top rack is also a really great way to clean em up.
Next you’ll need a dry, warm, and still, dust-free environment to paint it. A garage works fine. You’ll want to keep the door closed in order to keep it as still as possible. If the garage has a man door, then open it a put a large window fan right in the doorway. If not, leave the garage door slightly open and do the same with the fan aimed outward. If it’s a sealed floor, then make sure to mop it well. If it’s just a raw concrete floor, then I suggest getting it good and wet (leave it that way. If the dust/dirt is wet, then it can’t become airborne).
If the part has holes that a small wire can be fed through, then do so and hang the part and a height that allows you to paint all sides easily. If not, then find a way to support it so that you aren’t leaving edges to be painted on a surface. I often make cardboard stilts and hot glue the part to it. That way you can lift the part, spray all around, then place it back on whatever surface you’re using.
Just before you start painting, wipe the parts down with some sort of paint prep solvent. I like DuPont Prep-sol, but there are similar products available at auto parts stores and, in a pinch, you can use isopropyl with a lint-free towel.
Here’s the big secret for painting plastics; adhesion promoter. It’s primer specifically for plastics. I like bulldog. There are similar products at auto parts stores, but there nowhere near as effective. Spend the extra bucks on Bulldog.
Read the instructions for whatever adhesion promoter you’re using and apply as needed.
Once you’ve done that, then you’re ready for paint. Now, if you’re planning on going from a dark color, like black, to a lighter color, like yellow, white, red, etc., then you may want to consider a light colored primer. If you don’t, then you may find yourself applying many, MANY coats in order to achieve the color you’re after. I prefer Sherwin Williams rattle can for these sorts of jobs, but it can be tough to find unless you have an auto paint supply or Sherwin Williams store nearby. Duplicolor also works fine, just takes a bit longer to dry. Again, read directions and apply as needed.
You’re finally ready for a base and then top coat! Make sure you parts are dust free. Use whatever base coat (color) you want. I tend to like the little DupliColor touch-up cans and Krylon. Both dry quite quickly and are available most everywhere.
Do NOT use the Krylon Fusion crap. It’s meant to be used without a primer and I find that it produces really poor finish. I also have an aversion to Rust-Oleum. It takes FOREVER to dry and ALWAYS feels a bit tacky, even weeks and sometimes months after application.
Once you’re happy with the result, then you’ll want to apply a top (clear) coat to protect it. Again, Krylon is good, cheap, and available. They make a myriad of top coat finishes from flat to super high gloss. If you want a automotive quality high-gloss clear, then I suggest spending the extra bucks on products like Upol. Great stuff, easy to apply, and far more affordable than a proper 2-part clear.
Clear is often the hardest thing to apply in the whole process. I suggest testing on some just parts before tackling the job at hand. To little and you’ll end up with a finish that isn’t what you want, too much and you risk runs, which aren’t much fun to work out of the paint later in when it’s dry. Take your time and practice
Well, that’s about it. Wait for everything to dry (I know it’s hard to wait, but don’t risk destroying your fresh, new paint job). Then all you need to do is carefully reassemble and enjoy! Good luck!
*This FAQ assumes you don’t have access to professional paint supplies and tools, hence why I suggest employing rattle can finishes for every step.
This is something that I worked on for myself some time back when I acquired a GBA micro without a faceplate. I’d like to sell these, but I’m hoping to get some feedback before stocking up.
There are two ways that I can do this. 1, I can carry popular colors with popular designs that are always ready to ship out, or 2, I can do a batch of custom orders in a ‘group buy’ manner. This would give you folks the opportunity to have your own, unique faceplate with your choice of colors, graphics, images, etc.
So, let’s here what you think about this! Tell me what colors and/or designs you want. Pokemon, Megaman, Mario, whatever. How much is something like this worth to you? Mind you, these aren’t manufactured on a large scale. They are made in small batches.
Also, I’d like to shamelessly plug my other brand of product which just happen to get along quite nicely with the GBA micro